A Great Tip on Buttonholes
Saturday, March 10th, 2012
Placing buttons and buttonholes can be a pain. Here’s an awesome tip from Eunny Jang at Knitting Daily.
Placing buttons and buttonholes can be a pain. Here’s an awesome tip from Eunny Jang at Knitting Daily.
Am I the only one old enough to remember Paul Harvey? Anyway, looking through my blog posts I realized I havent’t posted all of my youtube videos here on my blog. I left off at three-needle bind off–whoa! There’s lot’s more. I’m loading the rest (i.e., the rest for finishing the sweater) into this one post.
After seaming shoulders with a three-needle bind-off,
you will start the Sleeve Cap (Part 1):
Followed by the Sleeve Cap, Part 2
Then work the rest of The Tapered Sleeve, Part 1:
And The Tapered Sleeve, Part 2
:
Almost done! Finish up the the Neck Ribbing, Part 1
:
…and Part 2:
Stop the clock!
I’ve had several requests for videos on knitting sweaters for children and men (have NONE of you heard of the Curse of the Boyfriend Sweater?) And yes, I’m planning to create those videos, but leave us face it (as my MIL used to say), I’m slow at cranking these things out. And I just answered a question on Ravelry about this very subject, so I thought I’d make it available to everyone. To keep things simpler, I freely reference my knitting videos on youtube. Here is a very abbreviated version of what I call Knitting for Everyone Else.
You may find it useful to have a chart of sizing standards that The Craft Yarn Council has published here.
Berroco has come out with another excellent video, this time on casting on for a K1P1 rib. It’s nice because the cast on edge matches the stitch pattern more closely than other cast on methods, and it maintains some stretch. Which, if you’ve ever ruined a piece of work with a cast on edge that is too tight, is one of those small but really important details for a successful garment.
I received an e-mail from Ann who asked about waist shaping when designing a sweater. My answer ran to several paragraphs, so I thought I’d share it, since I seem to recall interest in the subject…
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About three years ago at a Nordic Knitting Conference at Seattle’s Nordic Heritage Museum, I took a class by Danish knitting designer Marianne Isager. I didn’t really know who she was then, and had no idea what a treat I as in for. We had a really enjoyable class, but the bonus was being introduced to Isager’s work, which typifies everything that is good about classic design. She understands color and structure, and designs sweaters that are artful while still beautiful to wear.
One of the really juicy part of classes such as these is all the amazing knitted samples the instructors bring along. This class was no exception–included in the items shared were African textiles that inspired sweaters from one of her books, Knitting Out of Africa: Inspired Sweater Designs
What am I thinking? I have pictures taken of Andrea’s gray sweater that I finished last spring, and I haven’t posted a
thing. Andrea (twenty-something) told me she wanted a sweater that was skin tight (her words). After clearing it with her mom
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I like a three-needle bind off at the shoulder seams because I think it makes a neater looking seam. This means my shoulder stitches must be live, which is why I do all that horsing around with short rows for shoulder shaping that you saw in the previous post. Another way to work your shoulders is via binding off stitches, and then grafting the seams or sewing them with a backstitch, but try as I may, mine always look messy. That’s why I like the method I’ve shown.
Three-Needle Bind Off
I like to use short rows and a three needle bind-off for my shoulders because I think it makes a tidy-looking seam. This may seem more complicated than binding off and seaming or grafting the shoulders. I chose this method because I think getting a nice-looking, non-lumpy shoulder seam is problematic for newer knitters. If you want to view them in a larger window, click on the video to be taken to youtube.
First, short rows. I use a slightly different method than you may have seen.
Now, Part 1 of Shoulder Shaping:
Part 2:
Part 3:
Following up on the last post, you may find the following handy: the Craft Yarn Council publishes sizing standards. Here are standards for babies and children.
As I said previously, it’s like knitting two washcloths and adding sleeves. However, don’t forget to give the little guy some room at the neck–a round neck an inch deep will be plenty.