I’ve had several requests for videos on knitting sweaters for children and men (have NONE of you heard of the Curse of the Boyfriend Sweater?) And yes, I’m planning to create those videos, but leave us face it (as my MIL used to say), I’m slow at cranking these things out. And I just answered a question on Ravelry about this very subject, so I thought I’d make it available to everyone. To keep things simpler, I freely reference my knitting videos on youtube. Here is a very abbreviated version of what I call Knitting for Everyone Else.
You may find it useful to have a chart of sizing standards that The Craft Yarn Council has published here.
Berroco has come out with another excellent video, this time on casting on for a K1P1 rib. It’s nice because the cast on edge matches the stitch pattern more closely than other cast on methods, and it maintains some stretch. Which, if you’ve ever ruined a piece of work with a cast on edge that is too tight, is one of those small but really important details for a successful garment.
I received an e-mail from Ann who asked about waist shaping when designing a sweater. My answer ran to several paragraphs, so I thought I’d share it, since I seem to recall interest in the subject… Read more »
About three years ago at a Nordic Knitting Conference at Seattle’s Nordic Heritage Museum, I took a class by Danish knitting designer Marianne Isager. I didn’t really know who she was then, and had no idea what a treat I as in for. We had a really enjoyable class, but the bonus was being introduced to Isager’s work, which typifies everything that is good about classic design. She understands color and structure, and designs sweaters that are artful while still beautiful to wear.
One of the really juicy part of classes such as these is all the amazing knitted samples the instructors bring along. This class was no exception–included in the items shared were African textiles that inspired sweaters from one of her books, Knitting Out of Africa: Inspired Sweater Designs
I like a three-needle bind off at the shoulder seams because I think it makes a neater looking seam. This means my shoulder stitches must be live, which is why I do all that horsing around with short rows for shoulder shaping that you saw in the previous post. Another way to work your shoulders is via binding off stitches, and then grafting the seams or sewing them with a backstitch, but try as I may, mine always look messy. That’s why I like the method I’ve shown.
I like to use short rows and a three needle bind-off for my shoulders because I think it makes a tidy-looking seam. This may seem more complicated than binding off and seaming or grafting the shoulders. I chose this method because I think getting a nice-looking, non-lumpy shoulder seam is problematic for newer knitters. If you want to view them in a larger window, click on the video to be taken to youtube. First, short rows. I use a slightly different method than you may have seen.
Following up on the last post, you may find the following handy: the Craft Yarn Council publishes sizing standards. Here are standards for babies and children.
As I said previously, it’s like knitting two washcloths and adding sleeves. However, don’t forget to give the little guy some room at the neck–a round neck an inch deep will be plenty.
I just got a question from a knitter who said she didn’t have a circular needle (only straight, single-points), and wants to knit a sweater for her young daughter.
There are a couple of things she will do differently:
The sweater body is worked flat, with the front and back in two separate pieces that are seamed together in final assembly. An extra stitch must be added to each side seam as selvage stitches. They will become the seam allowance and lie inside the sweater.
No shoulder shaping is required–the shoulders can be knit straight across. Neck shaping is still needed, though.
Sleeves are drop-shoulder. That means no armhole shaping.
After shoulders are seamed, but BEFORE you sew the side seams, pick up stitches for the sleeves along the straight seam in the armhole area and knit the sleeve top down–no short rows.
Seam the side seams and sleeve seams, and you’re done except for neckline finishing.
Are you getting the picture here? Knitting a child’s sweater is like knitting two dishcloths, sewing them together and adding sleeves.
I tend not to post any videos but my own, but this video on the tulip buttonhole from Interweave knits is not to be missed. If you’ve tried making a decent buttonhole, you’ll see the value in this immediately. It looks like a little trouble, but the result is so worth it.
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